There’s a moment, just before sunrise at Finca Barlovento, where the stillness feels sacred. From the edge of my balcony, open to the elements and overlooking a wide jungle river, I watch the first light kiss the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Later, I’ll see the same sun sink into the Caribbean Sea beyond a horizon of crashing waves.
This is the world’s highest coastal mountain range, and it’s considered sacred by the Arhuaco, Kogi, and Wiwa peoples who still call it home. Few places in the world offer this alignment of river, mountain, jungle and ocean, and even fewer are working as hard to protect it.
It’s here, on Colombia’s untamed northern coast, in the quiet zone of Los Naranjos, that Finca Barlovento exists. Sitting at the meeting point of incredible cultural and environmental forces, this family-run eco-lodge offers breathtaking views of the Tayrona National Park on one side and, on the other, the Caribbean Sea, where the marine ecosystem is bursting with coral reefs.
Founded by Luis Fernando Gomez, Finca Barlovento sits in a private reserve surrounded by wildlife, biodiversity, and indigenous heritage. The national park is home to over 370 species of birds, over 100 species of mammals and over 70 species of bats, and its coastal trails lead to sacred indigenous sites and wild beaches.
But what makes Finca Barlovento truly remarkable is not just its dramatic location or off-grid charm, but its serious commitment to conservation. One that goes far beyond bamboo straws and organic soaps (although it offers those too).
A Front-Row Seat
What instantly strikes you on arrival at Finca Barlovento – after the jaw-dropping views – is the adorable resident parrot, Roberto, who greets guests at reception. Once you’ve been shown to your quarters, it’s the architecture.
The open-air rooms are elevated on stilts to let nature flow beneath, so you can hear the hush of the jungle. You fall asleep to ocean waves and wake to jungle calls, not to motors or machinery.
The Maloka, their signature lodging, draws on ancestral construction techniques, using natural woods and thatched palm to keep interiors cool while supporting local community work.
And at the heart of this is the RÃo Piedras, a glistening artery that serves as a vital lifeline for local wildlife, visible from every window and corner. There are no speedboats or runoffs, and very little human interference.
Instead, the river remains a protected natural habitat for one of Colombia’s more elusive native reptiles, the spectacled caiman. These shy crocodilian species native to northern Colombia have found sanctuary in the waters directly beside the finca, which serves as an unofficial buffer zone for the protected river habitat.
Sit quietly as you sip your morning coffee from the bedroom balcony or restaurant decking, and watch these threatened creatures glide through the water. No need for a riverboat tour or guided safari, you can observe them in their own home, from your very own home-away-from-home.
The surrounding forest is equally alive. Troops of howler monkeys vocalise in the treetops at dawn, while iridescent hummingbirds, tanagers – small, brightly coloured songbirds – and motmots dart through the palms and papaya trees. Some of those papaya trees, in fact, were planted specifically for birds and wildlife, the founders tell me. A meaningful gesture by the finca’s family to offset habitat loss and ensure there’s always something to eat for their feathered neighbours.
But their conservation work goes beyond the property and the forest.
The Finca Barlovento family is involved in a coral restoration program, working in partnership with Tayrona National Park to help regenerate damaged reefs along Colombia’s Caribbean coastline. They also organise and participate in regular beach cleanups, partnering with community groups to remove plastics and debris before they can wash into the ocean or harm wildlife.
Where Nothing Is Wasted
There’s something magical about rinsing off the salt and sweat of a jungle hike under a rainwater shower, then lying in a hammock as the wind moves through the trees. Then enjoying a delicious meal made from fresh, local ingredients.
Meals at Finca are prepared with seasonal ingredients, minimising food waste through smart portioning and reuse systems. But it’s behind the scenes where this family-run retreat shines most. All the organic waste collected is donated to nearby farms to feed animals or composted into fertile soil.
Bamboo straws and organic soaps also eliminate plastic and chemical runoff, keeping both human bodies and surrounding ecosystems clean. This is luxury for those who care more about impact than influence, though the stunning location is also spectacularly Instagrammable.
In an age when ‘eco’ has become a buzzword, Finca Barlovento offers a reminder of what real environmental stewardship looks like. Every stay here supports wildlife protection and reef restoration, helping to sustain the fragile ecosystems that surround it. And by choosing a place like this, travellers are voting for slower tourism in one of South America’s most delicate regions.
When you visit, your vacation funds conservation, helps endangered species thrive, and invests in the Earth. And in the stillness of morning, when the mist rises over the RÃo Piedras and the call of a howler monkey echoes through the trees, that feels anything but small.
Getting There:
Finca Barlovento is located in Los Naranjos, about 45 minutes east of Santa Marta by car. The easiest way to arrive is via private transfer or taxi from Santa Marta’s airport. Travellers from the UAE can fly into Bogotá or Cartagena with a connection from major hubs like Madrid, Istanbul, or Paris, then take a short domestic flight to Santa Marta. It’s also an ideal stop on a longer route between Cartagena, Palomino, and Minca.
For more information visit: fincabarlovento.com or follow their Instagram: @finca_barlovento
