I’m sitting cross-legged in a cave in the grounds of Raffles Bali, rain drumming against the jungle canopy outside, while water trickles down the moss-covered walls inside. I’m here for a one-on-one guided meditation, which sounded like a great idea when I booked it. Inner peace, deep relaxation, maybe even some kind of profound awakening. Instead, I’m battling a mental avalanche of nonsense. Did I reply to that email? How many mosquito bites am I up to now? Did I leave my hair straighteners on? Riska, my instructor, a serene lady entirely unbothered by my fidgeting, begins to chant while the hum from her singing bowl vibrates through the cavernous chamber.
At first, it adds to the chaos in my head, like a gong announcing my failure at mindfulness. But then something shifts. The hypnotic sound of the singing bowl, the rhythm of the rain, and the scent of damp stone seems to hush the incessant chatter of my thoughts. For the first time in what feels like forever, my thoughts begin to settle. I’m not overthinking. I’m just… here.
And that, I realise, is the magic of Raffles Bali. It’s not just about luxury, though that’s here in abundance, it’s the way the place makes you feel. Nestled in secluded jungle-clad cliffs, this isn’t just a resort, it’s a place designed to quiet the noise of daily life and reconnect you with nature. The kind of place where time slows down, the air smells of frangipani and morning rain, and even the cows seem to have mastered the art of the impossible. (More on them later).
Raffles Bali Uncovered
Raffles Bali is a secluded sanctuary of just 32 private villas dotted over 57 acres and positioned to face the ocean and Mount Agung, Bali’s most sacred volcano. From the moment I enter my villa, I know it’s a space I won’t want to leave. Native frangipani blossoms, heliconias, and pandan leaves frame the private infinity pool that appears to spill over the edge of the jungle mountainside.
A terrace with sun loungers, a shaded daybed made from locally crafted hardwood and a dining table offers countless ways to take in the views, while floor-to-ceiling windows inside let you enjoy the scenery from bed with your morning Sumatran coffee.
Even the bathrooms, with their plastic-free amenities and locally made hair and body oils, offer jungle views, while an outdoor shower allows you to privately soak in the natural surroundings.
Every detail in this Green Globe Certified-resort is rooted in sustainability. The beautiful grounds overflow with 110 species of plants – kept lush in the summer months thanks to a greywater irrigation system, while a natural river in the rainy season meanders through the garden down to the secluded Jimbaran Bay below.
Even the resort itself was built in 2020 with minimal disruption, keeping 60 per cent of the natural jungle intact and replanting the rest in local community areas. But, for all its commitment to nature, Raffles Bali is still effortlessly luxurious.
The open air Sanctuary Spa is a must. Offering treatments surrounded by rainforest, where the rush of the river below mingles with the chirps of the resort’s many birds and, during my stay anyway, the patter of rain on the wooden pavilion roof. The therapist works out tension I didn’t even realise I was carrying and at one point a fresh wave of rain sweeps through the valley.
Re-energised, I set off on a botanical tour, a journey through Raffles Bali’s plants, herbs, and spices. The organic herb garden, where apple and mango trees are natural pest controllers, and a small rosewood forest, where trees are planted for newlyweds, make the grounds purposeful and beautiful.
But nothing beats the super cows, the determined dairy herd from a neighbouring farm who have somehow mastered extreme hiking and scale the resort’s steep hills in search of fresh herbs. Their efforts have earned them the well deserved nickname, and a strong wooden fence now stands between them and the chef’s prized produce.
Back at Loloan Beach Bar & Grill, situated on the oceanfront, the resort’s herbs are put to use in classes like jamu-making, where fragrant turmeric, galangal and tamarind are stirred together. Ikhsan, the talented head mixologist, explains that this traditional drink, that boosts vitality and health, was once reserved for royalty.
In true Raffles Bali fashion, nothing goes to waste. The leftover jamu ingredients are transformed into the resort’s most sustainable mocktail, the Cepiring. As I create my concoction, I learn that last year the resort had a successful turtle release at the bay below after their eggs were discovered on the secluded beach, prompting the construction of a sustainable bamboo hatchery for them. I take a sip and a fresh downpour sweeps over the bay, turning the horizon into a misty blur. It’s all strangely perfect.
The Culinary Journey
My first real introduction to the resort’s culinary philosophy comes at Rumari, its signature restaurant, ranked among Asia’s 100 Best and one of Bali’s top 25. From the moment I’m seated, my hands washed in Frangipani oil and handed a Bimantara , a welcome drink of Balinese botanicals, lemongrass cordial, pineapple juice, basil, and soda, I know the 7-course vegetarian tasting menu is going to be special.
The food doesn’t disappoint – 80 per cent of ingredients come from Indonesian farmers after all – with amuse-bouches such as a white beetroot bite with lemon dressing, a pomelo and tamarind gel tartlet, a mushroom arancini with kaffir lime, and a spicy corn taco. The courses unfold with Indonesian ingredients galore: green chillies, jicama, and green mango with smoking ginger flower followed by a spicy Japanese egg custard with heirloom tomatoes and edible flowers. The main dish of mixed mushrooms, tomato salsa, and raw sambal wrapped in banana leaves, with a fragrant sauce of chilli, galangal, lemongrass, and ginger is even cooked over coconut husks instead of charcoal.
The next morning, Rumari’s thoughtful approach continues at breakfast. There’s no buffet – a rare move for a luxury resort – but instead, an à la carte menu with small portions to minimise food waste. Pastries, fruits, and yogurts are brought to the table, and the main dishes are ordered fresh. Just as I take my first sip of locally sourced coffee, a tiny gecko perched on the railing chirps… It’s a sound that can only be described as a toy duck with a broken squeaker. I’m told it’s a common breakfast guest.
That evening, I opt for dining on my terrace while a thunder storm rolls across the horizon. With views stretching across the jungle towards the sea under a sky turning hues of violet by lightning, I enjoy a vegetarian menu of grilled vegetable salad with feta and mie goreng sayur – street-food-style fried noodles packed with in-house farm vegetables. With the distant rumbling thunder and the hum of cicadas, there’s something intimate about eating alone in the open air. There’s no clinking cutlery or background chatter, just the sound of the island at night.
As I sip my final cup of freshly made ginger and pandan leaf tea, I think back to the Secret Cave. How I arrived there with my mind buzzing, and left feeling… different. More present. Even in the rain, Raffles Bali is perfect, a sanctuary where mist clings to the jungle, waves crash against the cliffs, and every experience feels like it should be exactly as it is.
How to Get There
Emirates operates 14 direct flights a week from Dubai to Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport (Denpasar International Airport), with a flight time of just over nine hours. Once you land it’s a 20-30 minute drive to the resort.
To learn more visit raffles.com/bali
