We’ll happily layer on serums, creams and oils in pursuit of brighter, smoother, better-hydrated skin. But alongside the headline ingredients promising that coveted glow, many skincare formulas contain extras added for their texture, scent, colour or simply to help the product last longer.
Before you stage a bathroom cabinet clear-out, though, synthetic doesn’t automatically mean unsafe, and natural doesn’t always mean gentle. The real question is what each ingredient actually does and, particularly if your skin is sensitive or damaged, whether it deserves a place in your routine.
‘The skin barrier helps protect against moisture loss and environmental irritants,’ explains Jessica Maxcy, Brand Manager at clean beauty brand, Eight Saints Skincare. ‘When it is compromised, skin can become dry, uncomfortable and more reactive to products that were previously well tolerated.’
Petroleum Derivatives and Silicones
Mineral oil and silicones like dimethicone create that silky, instantly smoother finish, and they help stop moisture from escaping, too. Despite what skincare TikTok may tell you, they don’t suffocate your skin or trap mysterious toxins beneath the surface.
Research suggests that mineral oil can improve skin hydration, while formulas containing dimethicone and glycerin can help reduce transepidermal water loss – the moisture that naturally evaporates through the skin’s outermost layer. Far from automatically damaging dry skin, these ingredients can help it retain moisture and support its protective barrier.
There is a catch, though. Occlusives – the ingredients that form a protective seal over the skin to lock in moisture – can’t do everything. A cream might leave your face feeling instantly soft and smooth while offering little else to support the skin barrier. For more complete care, look for formulas that contain moisture-attracting humectants, ceramides and fatty acids.
‘Texture can make a product feel effective immediately, but consumers should also look at the full formula,’ says Jessica. ‘Ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and nourishing oils can provide additional support rather than relying on surface smoothness alone.’
Synthetic Fragrances and Artificial Dyes
Fragrance, however, deserves a little more caution. It commonly triggers contact dermatitis, particularly in people with sensitive or eczema-prone skin. If your complexion regularly becomes itchy, red or irritated, the American Academy of Dermatology recommends choosing fragrance-free products, not simply those labelled ‘unscented’.
‘Fragrance makes a product more enjoyable to use, but it doesn’t improve the skin barrier,’ Jessica explains. ‘If your skin regularly feels itchy, tight or irritated, switching to a fragrance-free routine is a sensible place to start.’
Artificial dyes also serve an aesthetic rather than barrier-supporting purpose. The FDA states that allergic-type reactions to approved colour additives are possible but rare.
‘Most people can use approved cosmetic colourants without a problem,’ Jessica adds. ‘However, those with highly reactive skin may prefer simpler formulas without unnecessary colours.’
Preservative Stress and Chemical Load
Preservatives may not be the most glamorous ingredients in your skincare, but they stop your favourite serum or moisturiser from becoming a breeding ground for bacteria and mould. Parabens, including methylparaben and propylparaben, are among the most commonly used and the most controversial.
Current FDA guidance states that parabens have not been shown to be harmful when used in cosmetics at permitted levels. Reactions are still possible, as with many ingredients, but that doesn’t mean preservative-free products are automatically safer.
‘Paraben-free skincare is a personal preference rather than a guarantee that a formula will be gentler,’ says Jessica. ‘The complete ingredient list and how your individual skin responds are more important than focusing on a single label claim.’
Rebuilding Barrier Integrity with Biomimetic Formulations
A barrier-friendly routine should prioritise gentle cleansing, regular moisturisation and ingredients that help retain water or resemble components naturally found in the skin.
‘Look for well-balanced formulas containing ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and suitable plant oils,’ Jessica advises. ‘Introduce new products gradually and patch-test them if your skin is particularly reactive.’
Natural ingredients can also cause irritation, so the goal is not simply to avoid everything synthetic. It is to choose a formula that suits your skin and remove products that consistently cause redness, itching or discomfort.
‘Your skin barrier benefits most from consistency and a formula it can tolerate,’ Jessica concludes. ‘Understanding what each ingredient does makes it easier to build a routine that supports healthier, more resilient skin.’
