We’re gliding along the turquoise waters of Kenya’s Watamu Marine National Park searching for a handful of the 120 dolphins known to frequent the area. The early morning sun is starting to warm, and the air is dewy and fresh. After some time, a ripple and dart in the distance catches our attention. We move closer, drop anchor, and pop our paddle boards overboard before heading out towards the pod.
They are just ahead, cutting gracefully through the water, but they are shy. No matter how quietly we paddle or sit, they keep their distance, staying just out of reach. It’s a beautiful moment despite their shyness. Ultimately nature doesn’t follow any schedule, animals do things on their own terms, and as we watch them swim into the distance we know this is their world, and we’re just lucky to be a part of it.
We are in the Malindi-Watamu Biosphere Reserve as part of a Seas4Life conservation vacation – a Kenya-based sustainable tour operator that’s committed to preserving the ocean’s fragile ecosystems. Their work spans turtle rescue and rehabilitation, coral restoration, and seagrass protection, all aimed at keeping the marine environment of Kenya’s coast thriving. In Watamu, one of the bases for their marine safari experiences, guests can enjoy a rich biodiversity, with over 500 species of fish and 110 species of coral, with many activities centred around this underwater world.
From paddling with dolphins, next up is snorkelling in seagrass prairies, one of the area’s most important ecosystems.These underwater fields provide vital shelter and nourishment to a myriad of marine species. It’s estimated that a single hectare of seagrass can support up to 80,000 fish and 100 million small invertebrates.
The group swims slowly, the green blades of meadows swaying around us in the current, small fish darting in and out of the grasses, the soft sound of the sea around us. Soon the seagrass begins to dissipate and we reach the coral reef, alive with activity. Schools of fish in brilliant colours weave through the recuperating coral while sunlight filters through the turquoise water so commonly associated with this part of the world.
Sadly, in the 2015 and 2020, the region experienced severe coral bleaching events that led to substantial coral mortality. While recovery has been variable, recent reports indicate that Watamu’s coral reefs are showing resilience, particularly in regions where conservation programs, such as coral restoration projects and marine protected area management, are actively in place.
Seas4Life: From Sea to Land
As we head back to the boat and sit discussing the challenges faced in these waters, we prepare to learn about other threatened species in the area at the nearby Bio-Ken Snake Farm, a place that plays a significant role in snake conservation and the production of anti-venom. Seas4Life doesn’t just focus on marine conservation; it also plays a role in educating visitors about the full spectrum of local wildlife, including creatures that are often overlooked.
At the Snake Farm – established over 40 years ago and housing one of the most diverse collections of East African venomous snakes in the world – we see a variety of of these oft-misunderstood creatures, from the venomous black mamba to the more elusive python. A warden shows the audience how to catch a snake if they find one – on this occasion his demonstration includes a puff adder, the most venomous snake in the area.
The farm provides a safe and educational environment where myths around these animals are dispelled and guests can learn about the important role snakes play in the wider ecosystem. As predators we are informed, they help maintain balance by controlling populations of small mammals and pests and our guided tour teaches us about the need for conservation efforts to protect these camouflaged creatures.
Eco-Luxe Accommodation
After an afternoon of adventure, it’s time to hit up the stunning villa we are calling home that night, Kusini House. The Swahili-style eco-luxe villa is the perfect place to unwind after a day spent out at sea. Perched above the Indian Ocean, its white washed terraces offer stunning views of the the protected Mida Creek (the only protected creek in Kenya) and the breathtakingly beautiful rugged coastline.
Built with sustainability at its core, Kusini House features solar panels, upcycled furniture, and locally sourced materials, as well as a natural wind tunnel for cooling, making the most of the coastal breeze. With six spacious bedrooms, a private saltwater pool, and a rooftop terrace for sunset views over the creek and beyond, it’s the perfect place to relax and take in the day’s activities.
The villa also has its own semi-private bay, accessible via a small wooden door at the bottom of the garden, next to a giant olive tree. The forested pathway leads down to a secluded bay, perfect for a swim or, when the currents are calm, a snorkel. While the setting is stunning, it’s important to note that the waters here can be deceptively strong and the ocean floor is rocky. For those planning to enter the water, it’s best to ensure you’re a proficient swimmer and are equipped with the proper footwear.
As the sun sets we head up to the turreted terrace on the top floor, to enjoy cocktails as the sun dips below the horizon, basking the creek and surrounding mangroves in shades of pink and golds. The evening is capped off down by the pool with a buffet meal prepared by the in-house chef, using fresh locally sourced ingredients. A wide range of vegetarain options are on offer from a courgette and sunflower citrus salad, to spicy vegetarian pakoras and fresh cannellini with parsley. We all sit around a table for 8 enjoying the cool evening breeze, the chatter of conservation conversations and the sound of waves crashing on the beach below.
Turtle Conservation
The next day, we head out to snorkel again, this time in search of turtles. Among the colourful corals, we come across triggerfish, butterfly fish, parrotfish, and even the elusive hawksbill turtles gliding by. We also see an octopus in the sea grass beds. Later we visit the Turtle Sanctuary founded in 1992 and operated by Bahari Hai, a conservation organisation made up of former poachers and fishermen.
Here the focus is on rescuing injured turtles and monitoring their populations to ensure these ancient creatures thrive. So far they have rescued 23,000 of these majestic marine creatures and we meet one of their latest residents, a very weak turtle suffering from anemia and being fed a high iron rich diet.
While we don’t have the opportunity on this particualr occasion, Seas4Life guests are invited to help out with various activities, including tracking nesting sites and learning about the threats facing turtles in the area, such as poaching and habitat loss. By maintaining the health of turtle populations, they help preserve the marine environment like the coral reefs we had snorkeled in just earlier that day.
Later, we set off up the creek on a traditional dhow boat – a beautiful wooden vessel decorated with fresh frangipani and hibiscus. Some of the group took the plunge, snorkeling in the mangroves, while others stayed on board to enjoy the views and sun downers.
After a rewarding day, we’re treated to a traditional meal at the next destination – Nautilus House, a stunning homage to Swahili beach chic and bohemian Grecian elegance. The entire house is a testament to sustainability: fans made from neem trees that have naturally fallen, reclaimed dhow wood is used throughout, while the doors are handcrafted from felled trees and reclaimed antiques from Mombasa’s warehouses dot the earthy rooms.
Designed around the spiral of the nautilus shell, the villa features rounded stairs, curved corridors, and even unique terracotta bathrooms with a copper rain shower and a beautifully rounded bath. There is no plastic in sight; even the toilet paper hangs from old rope, and the mosquito net around the four-poster bed is clasped with the same rustic charm. The bed’s headrest is made from a piece of reclaimed wood, embedded above the bed, and the same material -a pale pink clay – covers the walls.
A full wall of window opens up to views of the pool, with the palm-lined ocean and its signature white sands and turquoise sea just beyond. The villa is safe and secure, and if you venture out after sunset, the friendly Swahili guard will accompany you to one of the local beachfront bars.
The next day, we fly back to Nairobi, where our conservation journey started. Seas4Life organised our entire itinerary, and on the first day in Kenya we had stayed at Seas4Life founder Julie Church’s boutique accommodation, a charming collection of villas, just moments from Nairobi National Park. Before flying to Malindi we were given the opportunity to visit one of the most unique wildlife parks in the world where giraffes, buffalo, and zebras graze against the backdrop of the city’s skyline.
The journey with Seas4Life is not just a chance to witness the beauty of Kenya’s coastal ecosystems, but an opportunity to become a part of the solution. From engaging with marine conservation efforts, such as turtle rehabilitation and coral restoration, to learning about local wildlife conservation in Nairobi and beyond, every aspect of the trip underscores the importance of protecting our natural world.
You can find more details on all Seas4Life experiences on their website and Instagram @seas4life
