It’s early morning in Jozani Forest, a 30-minute drive from Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, and a protected biosphere reserve on the southeastern coast of Zanzibar. Subtle sounds stir the air – a rustle here, a chirp there as I try to walk quietly through the gnarled greenery of mahogany, neem and tamarind trees. My guide, Mudrik, moves up ahead silently before stopping suddenly, pressing his fingers to his lips as he looks skyward and listens for the sound of moving branches, a telltale sign of primates in the vicinity.
Excited, we follow the rustling that leads to a small clearing, where, among the branches, they appear in their dozens: a troop of endangered Red Colobus monkeys. Their long tails – up to 30 centimetres – twist and turn, while the antics of their young send mango tree branches swaying as they leap from tree to tree, playing what can only be described as primate ‘tag’. They soon tire and withdraw to their mothers, waiting patiently in the wooded wings, for milk. The forest falls quiet again, the only sounds the song of exotic fisher turaco birds and the soft buzzing of crickets while colourful butterflies flutter by.
It’s a magical moment, made even more important because Zanzibar’s native Red Colobus monkeys are threatened with extinction, according to the IUCN Red List. There are only 2,500 of these primates – the most endangered in Africa – remaining on the archipelago, and their existence is thanks to the critical conservation work carried out at Jozani National Park and other protected areas of Zanzibar, including Ngezi Forest Reserve.
Everywhere I go, I hear: ‘Pole pole’ (pronounced poh-leh poh-leh), a Swahili term which, I soon learn, means ‘slowly, slowly’ or ‘take it easy.’ I’m soon to learn that this is the island’s ethos.
While it seems world’s away from Zanzibar’s powdery white sands and turquoise waters, Jozani National Park, which also includes a sprawling mangrove forest due to its proximity to the shore – is a mere twenty minutes’ drive from the coast, and for any honeymooner visiting this tropical paradise – or indeed curious traveller like myself – it’s a must-see.
Leaving the forest and heading to my resort in a jeep organised by Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa, the smell of cloves, cinnamon, and cardamom from local spice farms wafts through the open windows. The spice heritage in Zanzibar, often referred to as ‘Spice Island,’ dates back more than 200 years and there are multiple farm tours available for visitors.
Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa
With the fragrance of spices dissipating, I arrive at Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa. Nestled on the pristine beaches of Paje on the island’s southeastern coast, this award-winning Relais & Chateaux resort was honoured last year with the World Travel Award as Tanzania’s Leading Boutique Hotel, and it is nothing short of a five-star paradise.
From the moment I arrive, I don’t want to leave. The welcome is warm, and the environment is green – the resort has more than 20,000 plants over four hectares of grounds – and serene. Everywhere I go, I hear: ‘Pole pole’ (pronounced poh-leh poh-leh), a Swahili term which, I soon learn, means ‘slowly, slowly’ or ‘take it easy.’ I’m soon to learn that this is the island’s ethos.
Unlike typical primates that beg, steal, and pester, these particular monkeys, with their endearing white stripe hairdos, are known for being reserved. It seems even the monkeys in Zanzibar embody the island’s Hakuna Matata spirit.
The resort’s commitment to sustainability is omnipresent. Traditional Swahili architecture dots the property where Makuti-thatched buildings scatter the lush garden landscape. Communal areas blend seamlessly with nature thanks to beautifully designed natural open-air layouts, hand-made furniture, and traditional decor, all crafted from locally sourced materials.
As I walk towards to my beachfront villa – staff use e-scooters to traverse the grounds – a group of Red Colobus monkeys surprise me as they swiftly swing through a nearby Flame Tree, (famously known as the Zanzibar Christmas Tree for its vibrant red flowers that bloom in December). I learn that this troop frequently moves between nearby resorts, but unlike typical primates that beg, steal, and pester, these particular monkeys, with their endearing white stripe hairdos, are known for being reserved. It seems even the monkeys in Zanzibar embody the island’s Hakuna Matata spirit.
The beachfront villas – four out of eleven are 100 per cent off grid, powered by solar and wind energy alone – are designed to offer complete privacy with greenery such as sprawling mango trees, red flowering hibiscus bushes, and golden trumpet plants forming natural screens between abodes.
Each private space offers a secluded terrace, outdoor swimming pool and direct access to the azure ocean where shaded personal sun loungers await. Within the private garden, hammocks are tied between trees to offer guests a chance to relax while gazing out at the stretch of silky, soft sand (combed daily by staff for any plastic debris washed up overnight), crystal-clear turquoise sea, and white waves crashing in the distance on far off coral reefs.
If you can tear yourself away from the view, inside the villas there are thoughtful touches at every turn. From the elimination of single-use plastic in the multiple living spaces –a beachfront villa comes with lounge, bedroom, rooftop terrace, and outdoor bathroom – to locally handmade seaweed soaps wrapped in banana leaves, bamboo slippers, locally made Panama hats, and even banana leaf bins, these luxurious areas have been designed with eco-conscious luxury in mind.
Guests can enjoy a basket of fresh local fruits and freshly ground local coffee or ethically sourced aromatic teas.
Flavours of Zanzibar
One of the best ways to experience Zanzibar’s culture is through its food, and Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa offers a fabulous menu to support this. Chefs source food from their own organic garden and from neighbouring sustainable farmers.
The poolside African buffet dinner is not to be missed. Guests can enjoy an array of local vegetarian curries including machiche (collard greens curry) and fried yam with chapati while being entertained by a talented trio playing the violin, accordion, Arabic zither and drums.
For sundowners, there’s an unforgettable drinks menu. Highly recommended is the spicy passion fruit gin and tonic. Infused with local Scotch bonnets, one of the world’s spiciest chillis, it’s delicious, but not for the faint-hearted.
Breakfast includes an incredible selection of French pastries – this is a Relais & Chateaux resort after all (and their properties are often considered some of the best in the world) – with a range of homemade jams. Fresh local juices are served alongside an à la carte menu of organic, local eggs, all to be enjoyed in the stunning ocean front Beach Restaurant & Bar.
For sundowners, there’s an unforgettable drinks menu. Highly recommended is the spicy passion fruit gin and tonic. Infused with local Scotch bonnets, one of the world’s spiciest chillis, it’s delicious, but not for the faint-hearted.
Beneath the Shore
While the resort offers everything you could want in terms of relaxation, it also provides plenty of opportunities for adventure. Located near Paje village, guests can shop for traditional souvenirs or enjoy a drink at one of the small, local bars. The village is accessible by walking on the beach at low tide, a journey of about 20 minutes, or by using one of the hotel’s e-bikes.
Giant clams show off luminous green mouths, and shoals of minute damselfish shimmer past like a whirlwind of sparkling snow. It’s like swimming in another world, with giant coral formations blooming like giant oyster mushrooms beneath you
Just 20 minutes from the hotel by car, snorkelling at Michamvi offers a quick escape into Zanzibar’s underwater world. Dolphins can be spotted at the more popular Mnemba further north but this village is perfect for those short on time.
In the shallow waters, you can glide right alongside the coral reefs, but be careful not to touch this fragile underwater world. Brain coral thrives here, alongside soft green coral, tall sponges, and anemones where clownfish dart in and out of swaying tentacles. Giant clams show off luminous green mouths, and shoals of minute damselfish shimmer past like a whirlwind of sparkling snow. It’s like swimming in another world, with giant coral formations blooming like giant oyster mushrooms beneath you.
After an hour exploring the reefs, we board an awaiting boat where a platter of freshly prepared pineapple, mango, bananas, and watermelon are ready to refuel us before the next adventure: starfish spotting.
A short 15-minute ride further along the coast takes us to shallow, turquoise waters where the soft ocean floor is scattered with starfish in shades of red, orange, and yellow. These wonderful creatures, capable of living up to 50 years, move slowly – pole pole – of course. While it’s tempting to pick them up for photos, which I witness multiple times, starfish are highly sensitive to human bacteria, particularly sunscreen, and removing them from the water can be fatal.
As the boat returns to shore, the water around us is a tapestry of chalky turquoise, emerald green and deep blue, darkened by coral reefs and underwater seagrass prairies. I feel a tug of sadness at leaving this tropical paradise so soon. Zanzibar is a place where time seems to slow, where worries fade into powder-soft sand, lapped by turquoise waves and the rustling of palm trees. Life here is, well, Hakuna Matata.
Getting There
Flydubai operates direct flights from Dubai to Zanzibar, with a flight time of around five hours and 40 minutes.
From Zanzibar’s Abeid Amani Karume International Airport, Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa in Paje is approximately a one-hour drive, with private transfers available through the resort.
To learn more visit Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas & Spa
