A stranger is scooping up mud and slapping it on my back. Now it’s being smeared on my arms and across my face. It’s so hot it dries almost as soon as it touches my skin and I can feel it cracking when I move.
‘Here, rub it all over,’ the stranger instructs, handing me a bucket of black goo. I plunge my hands into it and encase my body with it. I’m not alone. All around me people are using the mud to leave thick hand prints all over their bodies and marking their cheeks with two stripes like tribal war paint.
It’s the ultimate ice breaker and I find myself in a bizarre Conga-style line, printing my ‘designs’ on strangers while they draw symbols on me.
But this is not some weird initiation ceremony or cult-like festival – I’m in the mud baths at Sulphur Springs, the world’s only drive-through volcano in Soufriere, on the Caribbean island of St Lucia, and this is all in the name of beauty as the mineral-rich mud here is supposed to leave everyone looking ten years younger. The fine volcanic ash exfoliates the skin while the minerals in the mud – sulfur, magnesium, calcium, and potassium – help increase collagen production, leading to a firmer, more youthful complexion.
It’s so strong that I’m wearing a dark swimming costume as the pigment stains anything light – and I’m worried the eggy sulphur scent that’s currently clinging to me will linger.
Rinsing off the mud is a perilous affair – I have to step into bubbling pools of sulphurous hot springs and boiling geysers, some of which are 45°C. ‘That’s hoooooot,’ I yelp, sinking into the water.
After boiling and scrubbing myself for a few minutes, I’m mud free and step out to dry myself off. My skin is surprisingly soft. ‘It’s nature’s botox,’ someone next to me laughs. It’s no wonder it’s the island’s most visited tourist attraction, but the locals flock here too, our guide and driver Spencer reveals. ‘It’s why we all look so young,’ he says. ‘Entire families come here once the tourists leave each day. None of us can resist the gift of youth.’
Twin Peaks
Nature’s bounty is in abundance on St Lucia, which has been named the most beautiful Caribbean Island by everyone from The Times to Global Traveller and it’s easy to see why. Descending into Hewanoora airport the day before came complete with views of the famous volcanic twin peaks of the Pitons which have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Covered in lush vegetation, the two spires rise from the sea, symbolic of the strength, resilience and spirit of the island that both the French and the British fought over for 150 years. It changed hands 14 times between them before finally becoming independent on February 22, 1979.
They – like everywhere around this part of St Lucia – have that distinct whiff of sulphur. ‘But that’s good,’ Spencer says. ‘If you can’t smell the Pitons, that means they’re about to erupt.’
Grand Piton can be climbed, with hikers rewarded with a breathtaking view of the island and sister spire, Petit Piton, which is much steeper and not recommended for hiking. They – like everywhere around this part of St Lucia – have that distinct whiff of sulphur. ‘But that’s good,’ Spencer says. ‘If you can’t smell the Pitons, that means they’re about to erupt.’
The last time that happened was in 1766, but suddenly I’m eager to get back to our hotel, the Coconut Bay Beach Resort & Spa, a premium all-inclusive nestled in 85 acres along the ocean front with a mile-long beach in the south of the island.
Spencer has other ideas and takes us to the nearby Toraille Waterfall, which is meant to be a refreshing dip with the bonus of a ‘hydro’ massage. It’s frr-eezing and even a little bit painful as it pummels my shoulders and back, but when I dry off (again) I realise there’s no lingering smell of sulphur.
That’s lucky as next we wind our way round the island’s vertiginous roads to The Beacon restaurant, a popular restaurant that serves a delicious creole buffet – and has an incredible sweeping view from its terrace down over the Pitons and Caribbean Sea sparkling in the distance.
Afterwards, on the way back to Coconut Bay, we pass by the Rabot Hotel, from the world-famous Hotel Chocolat, a chocolate-themed hotel nestled in the island’s rainforests. There are cacao plantations all over the island, and guests can come here to visit Project Chocolat, set across six acres on a cacao farm to see the entire process for making the beloved sweet treat – including creating your own chocolate bar.
‘Can you see the pineapples?’ Spencer asks, stopping our bus. He laughs as we all look upwards. ‘They’re there,’ he says, pointing to the ground, where giant pineapples are growing. He’s still laughing about it as we pull into the resort
It’s not the only locally grown produce we spot. Spencer points out bananas growing by the road side. He tells us that the plant’s bananas die after producing a bunch of fruit, but before they do, they create baby offshoots, or suckers, that will continue the cycle.
Green figs aren’t figs at all but green bananas. Almonds grow on trees – and are poisonous, acting like acid, before they’re ripe. ‘Can you see the pineapples?’ Spencer asks, stopping our bus. He laughs as we all look upwards. ‘They’re there,’ he says, pointing to the ground, where giant pineapples are growing. He’s still laughing about it as we pull into the resort.
Sustainability at the heart of Coconut Bay
Coconut Bay is the perfect Caribbean escape. Divided into the adults-only Harmony, and child-friendly Splash resorts, there is even a luxury retreat for honeymooners or those just eager to get away from it all at a five-star enclave called Serenity at Coconut Bay.
Comprising of 36 plunge pool suites, each with butler service, a personalised bar, king size four-poster bed, and walk-in rain shower, this is opulent romance at its luxurious best.
And while it has everything you could ever want for a totally tropical vacation – including eight restaurants, seven bars, five pools, a water park, spa, fitness centre, kids’ club, tennis, pickleball and basketball courts, cabanas and a wedding pavilion on the beach, conservation is at the heart of this island resort, too.
As the largest hospitality employer on the island, which celebrated its 20th anniversary last year, the resort is committed to ‘an exceptional and memorable visitor experience but also to sustaining livelihoods and improving the quality of life for our guests, staff, vendors and neighbours’.
The corporate social responsibility helps communities across the island from the young to the elderly, supporting everything from swimming clubs to a Senior Home, education – renovating a school and providing early learning resources and staff training –, adopting the paediatric ward of St Jude Hospital and caring for the expansive stretch of coastline that is home to three species of sea turtles, the vulnerable Leatherback, the critically endangered Hawksbill and the endangered seagrass-eating Green Sea Turtle.
As well as educating guests about the turtles who nest on the beach from March to November each year – and introducing the Skip the Straw, Save a Turtle initiative by banning plastic – the resort has partnered with the Saint Lucia National Trust and Department of Fisheries to support conservation efforts and launched the Turtle Scouts programme where Coconut Bay staff monitor the turtles and their nesting patterns to inform future conservation policies including the retrieval and release of endangered hatchlings.
Sea turtles are threatened by the illegal trade in their meat and eggs, as well as by habitat loss and climate change. Abnormally warm sea temperatures result in fewer male hatchlings and the loss of important surface foraging grounds, while rising sea levels can destroy critical nesting beaches and nests. Habitat loss, pollution and being caught as bycatch are also decimating numbers.
With tropical rainforests, cocoa plantations, crystal-clear water and pristine talcum powder beaches …the island is a slice of paradise. No wonder it’s been used as a backdrop to myriad movies, including Superman 2, when Christopher Reeve flew here to pick some exotic plants for Lois Lane
The neighbouring Maria Islands Nature Reserve, along with the resort’s mile-long beach are part of the Pointe Sables Environmental Protection Area – St Lucia’s largest seascape of interconnected coral reef, seagrass and mangrove.
Environmental initiatives at the resort include growing their own produce in greenhouses to support farm to table dining opportunities, and installing a rooftop rainwater harvesting system to help fill the swimming pools and using grey water to irrigate the gardens and landscaping.
A celebrity escape
It’s good to know that such a spectacular and stunning resort is built on sustainable and ethical foundations and that everyone is working hard to maintain the raw beauty of St Lucia.
With tropical rainforests, cocoa plantations, crystal-clear water and pristine talcum powder beaches in every hue from white to black sand, the island is a slice of paradise, after all. No wonder it’s been used as a backdrop to myriad movies including in Superman 2 when Christopher Reeve flew here to pick some exotic plants for Lois Lane.
Nowadays, everyone from Harrison Ford to Oprah Winfrey and Matt Damon holiday in St Lucia, no doubt bewitched by the natural scenery and the spicy blend of Creole culture.
Eager to explore the island, I join a ‘sea and land’ excursion which starts with a catamaran tour. Sunlight bounces off the azure waves as we sail, while our guide points out various sights. We pass by Jade Mountain, the island’s most expensive hotel, where the 29 open-air suites – known as sanctuaries – look over the mighty Pitons, and each has an infinity pool and hot tub. Depending on the season, these stunning suites can cost between $1,385 – $4,340 per night. Guests are given a water gun when they check in to scare off any warblers or blackbirds that might fly inside.
We stop at Sugar Beach – A Viceroy Resort for a dip in the sea and to enjoy some peace and quiet on one of the two pristine white beaches. ‘Matt Damon was just here,’ our guide tells us. ‘He’s always here.’ In fact, the Bourne Identity star booked out the entire resort so he could renew his vows with his wife in front of guests including Ben Affleck and Chris Hemsworth. To keep it a secret, he booked it under the name of Mr and Mrs Naff.
As the afternoon sun beats down, we see goats, horses roaming free ‘tethered’ only by a long rope dragging behind them and two small children playing in the shade under some trees outside their house who flash huge smiles and shout ‘hello’ as we pass
Back on land we head for a walk over the headland near the resort. As egrets wade by the beach below or whirl overhead, and brightly-coloured butterflies land on the lush landscape, I inhale the clear, sea salty air and smile. All I can see is verdant green grass and turquoise sea below big skies – and I can’t get enough.
As the afternoon sun beats down, we see goats, horses roaming free ‘tethered’ only by a long rope dragging behind them and two small children playing in the shade under some trees outside their house who flash huge smiles and shout ‘hello’ as we pass.
A Creole affair
I’m hungry when we arrive back but luckily Coconut Bay has plenty of all-inclusive food options. I like the Caribbean food in Calabash, and Asian dishes in Silk – the tofu is outstanding. Jerk Tree House is always packed thanks to the chef’s spicy jerk sauce slathered over literally everything.
But the stand-out eatery has to be The Greathouse at Serenity where the Mediterranean and Caribbean inspired menu is crafted by a Greek executive chef. The gourmet a la carte restaurant is included in the Serenity package but other diners can pay to dine here.
I feast on a Mediterranean platter which includes falafel, kalamata, hummus, roasted tomato dip and a Greek salad, followed by a vegan pie washed down with chilled drinks in the exquisite private dining room.
The rest of our stay is a blur of beach, bar and binging on divine food. We enjoy the Caribbean-themed night with beachside buffet, fire-eaters and dancing, afternoons in the resort’s lazy river and sipping cocktails al fresco as the sun sets.
It’s a glorious way to unwind and just before heading home we’re treated to a massage at the Sanctuary Spa’s in an ocean front cabana. What better way to relax than with a deep-tissue treatment with the sound of the waves and a cacophony of exotic birds in the background? It’s totally tropical bliss.
GETTING THERE
An all-inclusive seven-night stay at Coconut Bay Resort & Spa is from £1,249 per person, based on double occupancy excluding flights. cbayresort.com
