As a parent of young kids, the concept of a lie-in is as mythical as a unicorn sighting. So, of course, when I finally find myself in the ultimate setting for uninterrupted sleep – one of the dreamy overwater villas at the recently opened Anantara Mina Al Arab in Ras Al Khaimah, where the only thing on my morning agenda is lounging in the sun before an 11 a.m. spa treatment – my body decides that 5:45 a.m. is the perfect time to be wide awake.
But as I give up the battle for sleep and pull back the curtains, I realise that maybe my body clock isn’t as unkind as I thought. I’m greeted by a breathtaking view of mangroves silhouetted under a dawn sky of reds and golds, and as I step out onto my spacious terrace, I hear a chorus I wasn’t expecting. The air is filled with the chirps and calls of thousands of herons, flamingos, egrets, sandpipers and 30 or so other migratory bird species that call Ras Al Khaimah’s mangroves home over winter.
It’s loud – alive with birdsong and the rustling of wings – yet somehow, it’s the purest kind of quiet. The sound of silence that only nature can create
With a fresh coffee in hand, I stand there in stillness, taking it all in. It’s loud – alive with birdsong and the rustling of wings – yet somehow, it’s the purest kind of quiet. The sound of silence only nature can create. It’s a far cry from the wake-up calls I usually get: screeches of ‘Mummy, I don’t want to go to school!’, fighting over who’s toy it is, and the chaos while we all search for my eldest daughter’s lost school shoe. Yes, thousands of birds are not noisy at all, especially when you’re staying in Ras Al Khaimah’s first overwater luxury retreat.
It seems early morning rises to appreciate the emirate’s natural beauty are a rite of passage at Anantara Mina Al Arab. The day before, I had set off at 7 a.m. for a hike to Jebel Jais, the UAE’s highest peak. Meeting my guide Kola from Adventurati at the Bear Grylls Explorer Camp, we set off on a 5km trail through the Hajar Mountains, making the most of the cool morning weather.
Acacia trees dot the golden landscape, their branches offering pockets of shade along the vast expanse of sand-colored boulders. The silence is intense, broken only by the occasional bleating of a baby goat or the clatter of stones tumbling down steep slopes as they expertly navigate the rocky terrain. I watch them with envy as they leap effortlessly from ledge to ledge on paths that look barely wide enough for a human toe.
My guide quickly catches on to my love of goats and takes me off-piste to follow a pair. I’m certainly not as agile as my long-haired counterparts, but I find myself letting go of my fear of heights as we clamber over the rocks. The effort is worth it. The sea of stones in all it’s rugged simplicity is breathtaking.
After the hike, we visit a local farm, where goats watch us from surrounding rocks. Each morning, I’m told the farmers let them roam freely, and by evening, they return home on their own simply knowing where their food and shelter is – a lesson in routine that makes me question my own parenting methods.
A Tranquil Escape
Back at Anantara Mina Al Arab, my aching joints remind me of every boulder I scrambled over the day before, and I’m delighted I have a scheduled spa treatment that morning. I make my way to the spa by foot – buggies are offered to villa guests but the resort is a comfortable size for walking – where I’m welcomed with a warming cinnamon, honey, and star anise drink and my wonderfully talented therapist Ayu from Bali.
I opt for the Signature Anantara Massage, a blend of Eastern and Western techniques using detoxifying lime and mandarin essential oils. The treatment includes gentle stretching, and a full body massage, working into the knots I definitely earned from my mountain-climbing escapades, before concluding with a head massage to the healing sound of singing bowls.
I head to the beach afterwards to enjoy some rest and relaxation with endless views of the Arabian gulf. Lunch is at Beach House that offers Mediterranean classics by the sea. I order an arrabbiata, and it turns out to be the best I’ve ever had. Spicy, al dente, and bursting with flavour. Guests can also enjoy a light lunch at Jalabar, the poolside restaurant, or a cocktail from the swim-up bar, where drinks are shaken and stirred without ever leaving the water.
Before I know it, the sun is dipping and it’s time to head to the water sports centre for a late afternoon kayak. The timing of the activity depends on the tide, and I’m lucky to paddle through the winding waterways as the early evening sun casts a golden glow over the mangroves – and just as the birds begin returning for the night.
As we round a bend that’s obscured from villa views by the lush mangroves, we come across a stand of flamingoes. At first, they don’t notice us, but once they do it’s time to take to the skies. Scurrying clumsily, their long, bendy legs dart forward before, with one effortless movement, their striking pink wings extend and they take to the sky.
Watching them soar in a synchronised line is mesmerising and I feel like I’ve been transported to an exotic tropical paradise. I can’t believe this experience is right here on our doorstep in the UAE.
The birds settle again just a little further away and we gently paddle forward to them. There they have joined a far larger colony and as we sit at a respectful distance, I count over a hundred of them. As we paddle back to shore enormous white egrets fly past and the tell-tale sound of this wonderful resorts, returns. The chirping of birds.
The cacophony is a reminder that Anantara Mina Al Arab’s commitment to sustainability goes beyond traditional eco-friendly practices; they have a strong focus on environmental education and preservation. The resort has a dedicated resident bird watcher, ensuring that the local wildlife is protected and monitored, contributing to the area’s vital biodiversity.
Additionally, they are opening a new center this year – that will be open to the public – aimed at educating guests and the local community about the critical role mangroves play in protecting coastal ecosystems. The team at Anantara Mina Al Arab goes to great lengths to preserve the local mangrove forests, an to ensure tourism practices have minimal environmental impact. At low-tide you’ll spot staff picking up any litter that has been washed to shore overnight.
Anantara Mina Al Arab – The Hotel
After the 45-minute kayak experience, I head back to my pool villa, perched on stilts over water reminiscent of Maldivian escapes and the first overwater villas in Ras Al Khaimah. Of Anantara Mina Al Arab’s 174 rooms, a mix of suites and villas, these overwater villas are the most striking. Featuring dhoni (fishing boat) shaped roofs, vaulted ceilings, and spacious interiors, each overwater villa has its own private plunge pool on a deck that overlooks the mangroves down to the azure Arabian Gulf.
In the evening high-tide, water laps gently at the sides, reflecting the pink and golden colours of sunset. Birdsong fills the air again as thousands gather, some perched on villa rooftops, waiting for the perfect moment to swoop down into the mangroves for dinner.
Dinner for non-bird residents that evening is best enjoyed at Mekong, as much like its Dubai counterpart, it is a must-visit. The Vietnamese-Thai fusion menu offers standout vegetarian dishes like the green vegetable curry (packed with locally sourced vegetables), the garden Vietnamese rolls, and the som tam (papaya) salad. The traditional wooden booths suspended over water mimics water lilies, and coupled with the sounds and smells, will transport you straight to Southeast Asia.
As the night closes in and I walk back to my villa, light from the moon casting reflections on the water that surrounds the overwater villas, I think about how perfectly Anantara Mina Al Arab has balanced luxury and nature. From mangrove birdwatching opportunities to rejuvenating spa treatments, kayaking amongst flamingos at sunset or setting off for an early morning hike of Jebel Jais, every moment of the stay helps you leave the hustle and bustle of city life behind, reconnecting you to earth.
Over water pool vill a prices start from AED3, 443. For more information visit anatara.com
