Gazing down upon Ljubljana (pronounced lube-lee-ya-na) from its 16th century castle on a hill, I’m struck by how many boxes the capital of Slovenia ticks for me in terms of being a perfect city. The centre became car free in 2012, so pedestrians and cyclists may wander and bike safely, and fume-free; in the Old Town there’s a noise curfew, with last drinks served in bars by 11pm, in respect of the people that live there; and the air feels wonderfully clear as 46 per cent of the city is covered by native forest, and a total of 75 per cent is covered in green spaces.
Its reputation of being one of Europe’s greenest capitals precedes it, and it was no wonder that in 2016 Ljubljana won the accolade of Europe’s Green Capital for high environmental standards, particularly for its zero-waste strategy. Then, a year later, came further recognition for the Slovenian Tourist Board in a National Geographic World Legacy Award for the example set for sustainable tourism practices.
What also adds to the appeal, is that Ljubljana remains a little off the tourist radar. This is a city rich in history and culture, with great food, and plenty of beautiful, unique architecture, and yet most foreign tourists would struggle to name a landmark. The result is a beguiling city in which to take your time in and practice the gentle art of slow travel, connecting with the people and culture in an unhurried way.
‘On the house,’ my waiter tells me, placing down a liquor. ‘I made it myself from the cherries in an orchard just near my house.’ The drink is a little like port but has a tangy, sharpness to it, and is utterly delicious. The fact that the waiter made this bootleg chaser and is sharing it with customers says much about the Slovenian’s generosity and their connection with nature. I’m dining at Breg (as popular with locals as tourists) on a platter of local cheeses, and my view is to the river and the many unusual bridges.
In 1921, local architect extraordinaire Joze Plecnik, decided that Ljubljana wasn’t quite unique enough and added embellishments to existing bridges and buildings, most notable of which is the Triple Bridge which he adorned with balustrades and lamps and added two pedestrian-only bridges (impressively ahead of the game when it came to thinking about sustainable ways for residents to get from A to B).
His vision extended to walkways being built along the riverbanks with chestnut trees planted to provide a healthier environment, and he was a conservationist, lobbying for the preservation of the city’s parks, which continue to thrive today.
His piece de resistance is the National & University Library, which you can only visit fully on Saturdays (on other days it’s deemed polite not to disturb the students). I enter through a door adorned with horse-head doorknobs to a grand black marble foyer, then continue up the colonnaded staircase, where, through high windows, I get a glimpse of the immense wheel-like Art Noveau chandeliers hanging from the ceiling of the wood-panelled, book-filled Reading Room.
Plecnik was also the city’s first recycler, using recycled materials in the building of St Michael’s Church, so it was a fitting tribute to the man when Ljubljana became Europe’s first zero-waste capital in 2014, and when, in 2021, UNESCO added his human-centred design to its World Heritage List.
I’m staying at Hotel April 1550, a boutique hotel within the cobbled streets of the Old Town that opened last year after a seven-year restoration of a 500-year-old building that once housed the families of cobblers, potters, and winemakers. The eight rooms, all painted a chalky white, are simply but stylishly furnished with natural fabrics of linen, cotton, and wool, and locally made furniture, which let the beauty of architecture do the talking: exposed beams and bricks, arches, vaults, 16th century wooden ceilings, stone floors, and original frescoes feature.
Nice touches include piles of books in every room, all natural toiletries from local brand Odori, and complimentary biodegradable felt slippers from brand Kaaita, made from discarded plastic bottles. There’s a hidden courtyard with herb garden, where tables are set for the buffet-style breakfast, laid out in the hotel’s pretty café with its original 16th century fresco. And if you fall in love with the pottery, made by local artist Barbara Skubic, there’s a chance to make some of your own in her nearby studio.
‘The raspberries are the first of the season, and the cake and breads come from the artisan bakery just around the corner. The jams are homemade fruit compotes with no added sugar, as is the granola. The cold cuts and cheese are from local farms, all organic. All else is made in-house, except for the honey that comes from a Ljubljana beekeeper, one of around thirty in the city,’ owner Natasa tells me, without taking a breath, illustrating her passion for local, seasonal food.
I help myself to buhteljni, a light, fluffy bun filled with a plum compote, and a spoonful of fruit with crumble topping, which transports me back to childhood and my own mother’s cooking. I end my breakfast with a slab of bread dripping with honey produced by the native Carniolan bee (astoundingly, per 1000 capita, you’ll find an estimated 5 beekeepers).
Dining Like a Local
I hadn’t come to Slovenia thinking that food would be a highlight, but as I wander later through the daily Central Market (to buy deep red cherries and wild blackberries) and the outdoor Odprta Kuhna food market (operating every Friday during summer months) I’m struck by how fresh and local all offerings are. There’s an abundance of pork ribs roasting on open charcoal fires, and sausages sizzling on grills, as this is a nation of meat-eaters, but in recent years, the vegetarian and vegan dining scene has grown.
Not to be missed are places such as The Fungalist, with their foraged-for mushroom-based menu, and Gujzina, where traditionally meat based Slovenian soup and stews are adapted to be meat-free. Don’t miss trying the popular snack of Struklji, cheese dumplings flavoured with chives or tarragon, served everywhere. Quenching your thirst regularly doesn’t cost one Euro as there are 44 public water fountains dotted around the city (you can find the location of these on the Tap Water Ljubljana app), which delivers pure, delicious-tasting water not treated with chemicals.
This is a nation of natural eco-warriors (it would be unthinkable to them to drop litter, particularly at a natural beauty spot) but what also keeps the streets clean are the hefty fines that littering brings. Immersing yourself in nature (58 per cent of the country is forest) by hiking, canyoning, canoeing, wild camping, and swimming is the number one national pastime. So, a day trip beyond the city shouldn’t be missed.
Spectacular Landscapes
By train, I head to Lake Bled (the picture-perfect pin-up for tourism in Slovenia) just 35-kilometres away, to swim beneath the shadow of its castle on a hill in emerald-green waters that stay at 20 degrees year-round due to thermal springs. Five kilometres beyond the town is the Vintgar Gorge in the Triglav National Park, where I don a hard hat to walk the wooden walkway (first built in 1893, though regularly maintained) that is bolted to the rock face, while below frothy, menthol-hued water rushes.
The path back to the visitor’s centre takes me through countryside awash with small farms and prettily painted wooden beehives, and pastures of wildflowers such as the purple bell-shaped leper lily, and fragrant pine wooded hills.
Next day, I climb to Ljubljana’s castle, which can be reached by funicular or on foot along a winding leafy trail, to visit the 15th century Chapel of St George, with a frescoed ceiling in shades of pinky terracotta and sky blue. The views of the city from the adjacent watchtower, with a spiralling red wrought-iron staircase, are over a patchwork of red roofed buildings to the river and beyond the city to the mountains.
Back on ground level, I pay a visit to the National Gallery, discovering the works of Jurij Subic and Rihard Jakopic, Slovenia’s answer to the French impressionists. Taking a river cruise with operator Barka Ljubljana, the only e-boat operating on the river, gives another perspective on the city. Once it has glided smoothly beneath the Cobbler’s Bridge, the illusion is that the urban landscape is disappearing as the natural beauty of the riverbank unfolds, where solo canoeists cut sleek silver trails, fishermen cast lines for trout, and picnickers sprawl under weeping willows.
Red deckchairs dot the grassy banks and bookcases, filled with books to borrow, are part of the lovely initiative Reading Under the Trees, which aims to bring books to everyone (you’ll see the same at various locations, including sprawling 510-hectare Tivoli Park, where it’s nice to borrow a bike to explore), giving me yet one more reason to fall in love with this city.
By twilight, I wander through the Old Town, tucked just behind the eastern bank of the river, which is, by now, my favourite quarter. Of the three long squares – those of Mestni, Stari, and Gornji – that lead into one another and are lined with much of the city’s finest Baroque architecture, I settle down for a 100 per natural natural wine at Vida (it’s a little-known fact that Slovenia produces some of the world’s best Merlot), before wandering back to the riverbank where Plecnik’s beautiful bridges are now illuminated in the most appropriate of colour for a city that prides itself on being green.
Details
Doubles at Hotel April 1550 from €130 (AED 518) per night including breakfast april1550.com